Ted, Ted, Ted

A narrow two-lane paved road, built a few years before with money from John Kennedy’s Alliance for Progress, ran the length of Peru’s coastal plain. It was called the Pan-American Highway, and in the barriadas to the south of the city it was the only paved road. It more or less bisected the expanse of [...]

We took a right turn off the Pan American highway and drive several miles along a gravel road to the tiny town of Puerto Lomas. Fishing was no longer a major source of work for ordinary Peruvians along the coast; industrial-scale ocean fishing had long ago driven most of them out of business. But Puerto [...]

Somehow they decided to chance it – we weren’t doing anything else pressing around there, just heading for the beach – so we loaded up the Land Rover and bounced out to where someone had suggested we might find the fearsome Dr. Reich. Near a shed in the middle of absolutely nowhere, a Toyota Land [...]

My parents believed strongly in getting out and seeing things, especially archeological sites and beaches, neither of which was much in evidence in the places they came from. There was one beach in the port city of Callao, next to Lima, made of rocks the size of my fists, worn smooth by the waves. I [...]